Elizabeth Islands

Within sight of the southern tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, the Elizabeth Islands extend between Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound. These low-lying islands cover 13 square miles, but are spread out over 10 times that area. Fourteen of the 16 islands are privately owned by the Forbes family. However, Penikese Island, a tern sanctuary, is owned by the state of Massachusetts and Cuttyhunk Island, with a year-round population of less than 40 inhabitants, welcomes a limited number of visitors during the summer. Fishermen hunker down year-round in Cuttyhunk’s harbor in between plying the treacherous currents of Vineyard Sound for bluefish. Overall, the Elizabeth Islands are an anachronistic archipelago of uninhabited scrub, rugged beaches and white clapboard houses that seem to have come straight from the pages of a Melville novel.
  1. History

    • In 1602, English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold landed on what is now Cuttyhunk Island and named it Elizabeth Island in homage to the English queen. The Gosnold Monument, erected in 1903 on Cuttyhunk's beach, commemorates the first pre-Jamestown settlement in the United States. Cuttyhunk was a shelter for boats out of New Bedford, Massachusetts during whaling's 19th century heyday. Today, the local economy thrives on the oyster beds of Cuttyhunk Shellfish Farms, which supply the Harbor Raw Bar at Fish Dock, among other places, with clams and oysters. The Cuttyhunk Historical Society maintains a free museum for cultural insight into the islands’ past.

    The Islands

    • Most of the activity on the Elizabeth Islands takes place on Cuttyhunk Island. Penikese Island has a colorful history as a nature reserve, leper colony and, most recently, as home of the Penikese Island School, a haven for children recovering from substance abuse. Currently, though, Penikese is best known as a tern sanctuary. Although Naushon Island is privately owned by the Forbes family, visitors are allowed to visit Tarpaulin Cove, Kettle Cove and Hadley Harbor, with the Cuttyhunk Historical Society organizing tours.

    Getting There

    • Cuttyhunk Island, the westernmost of the Elizabeth Islands, is a 14-mile ferry ride from New Bedford, the crossing taking just under an hour. Ferries run once a day in summer and just twice a week during the winter months. The Cuttyhunk Ferry Company also organizes seal watching tours around the islands. As the island is less than a mile square, getting around is on foot or by bike, although locals zip around on golf carts. Bikes can be taken on the ferry, but not vehicles. Visitors can also take an 18-passenger water taxi to and from New Bedford. This vessel is available for private charters.

    Things to Do

    • There are no restaurants on Cuttyhunk Island, but summer visitors can buy sandwiches, ice cream and smoothies around the wharf, not to mention local delicacies such as quahog, oysters and clams, which can be bought from local fishermen. Be warned that Gosnald is a dry town. Visitors to Cuttyhunk typically come for seal watching, walking, kayaking and fishing. Those wanting to stay longer can overnight at the Cuttyhunk Fishing Club, the island’s only bed and breakfast. This B&B, which has played host to presidents, including Theodore Roosevelt and Bill Clinton, is the island’s social hub. Avalon Inn can also be rented for self-catering accommodation.

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