There are places in this world that, owing to the natives' diligence, have somehow managed to escape the often marring imprint of progress. They choose instead to exist within the proven framework of tradition. Such has been the way of the aboriginal Tiwi islanders, for the last 7,000 years. Many of the modernized cultures around them who once viewed their arrested behavior with disdain have eventually shifted their position to one of regard.
The Tiwi island chain lies just off Australia's northeast coast. Eleven islands in all, yet only two, Bathurst and Melville, are inhabited. With only a narrow channel separating them, the islands are home to around 2600 residents. The terrain is rugged and, much like the nature of the people who live upon it, stubbornly resistant to change. Many of the indigenous plant and animal species are exclusive to the islands. Included are more than 50 species of birds and mammals, as well as nearly 30 species of reptiles. As rough as the environment appears, it’s offset by an assortment of rain forests, waterfalls and sandy shoreline. You can’t just book a flight and come ashore for a look, however. Access is restricted, and you’ll have to obtain a permit and arrange for a guide. Don’t plan on staying long, either. The islands have few tourist accommodations, with the exception of a handful of remote fishing lodges.
The majority of the area’s population lives on Bathurst Island, in the settlements of Wurrumiyanga and Pirlangimpi. While these communities do have conventional food stores, the islanders are still primarily hunters/gatherers who rely on dugong and turtle eggs to supplement their regular diet. A more modern affectation is their intense interest in Australian rules football. It's one of the few social threads they share with the outside world. Known for strength and endurance, Tiwi islanders have introduced several professional players into the sport. Each March, the islanders hold a grand-final day football tournament. The well attended event is the only time visitors are allowed on the island without a permit.
Tiwi islander culture forms the framework for their enduring individuality. In addition to the unaltered methods they employ for survival, there are several activities that serve in expressing their exclusive lifestyle. The practice of body painting using ochre prior to a ceremony has gone on for thousands of years. Dancing, or yoi, has also served as a fundamental ritual for countless generations. There are daily spontaneous dances and structured ceremonial performances, some are combined with singing as a form of storytelling.
The Tiwi culture is distinguished by arresting primitive art that has roots in the decorative painting of ironwood Pukumani poles, which adorn the grave sites of loved ones. It has evolved into an internationally recognized style and lucrative enterprise for the island people. With a network of art centers flourishing on island soil, there is a regular production of wood carvings, pottery, textiles and paintings utilizing the signature native techniques. Tiwi artists have held many exhibitions abroad, and their work -- unaffected by the whims of progress -- is highly sought after by collectors worldwide.
