Rob Van Driesum and Denis O'Byrne, authors of "Lonely Planet: Outback Australia," agreed that defining the outback is difficult, but "you'll certainly know it when you see it. It's the mythical Australia---the Australia of red dust, empty tracks, strange wildlife, endless vistas, tall tales and big thirsts."
On a satellite photo of Australia, you can see the green edges of the continent where most of the larger cities are, as well as the reddish brown, dry interior that is the outback. National Geographic reporter Robert Earle Howells notes that the outback occupies an area about 2/3 the size of the continental United States. Rivers are few and far between, as are settlements established by Europeans.
Uluru (named Ayers Rock by European explorers), a red stone mountain sacred to the aboriginal peoples of Australia, lies a few miles west of the Stuart Highway, about halfway between Adelaide and Darwin. It's traditional to view the rock at sunset.
A little north of Uluru is West MacDonnell National Park, famous for its spectacular scenery. Visitors can hike the entire length of the park, which takes about 20 days, or settle for shorter sojourns into the back country. It's advisable to go with a guide.
Nitmiluk National Park is right on the cusp of the outback at the north end, not far from Darwin. Canoe alone down the Katherine River through red rock gorges, or you can go with a group of paddlers. You need a permit to enter most of Australia's national parks, and certainly you'll need one to camp there.
The Australian interior is home to many settlements of aborigines, the original occupants of the continent. To enter aboriginal land, you must have a permit---even if you're just leaving the highway to buy gas. Contact the local land council or government department by mail or online for guidance.
The Stuart Highway crosses the continent from north to south almost exactly at its center, connecting Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory, to Adelaide, the capital of South Australia. The Brisbane to Darwin road skirts the edge of the outback as it swings in from the coastline of New South Wales on its way northeast. On the far side of the continent, the Perth to Darwin road clips the western edge of the outback before heading for the northwest coast and heading for Darwin.
Aside from these highways, however, most of the interior is bare of roads except for "tracks," which are simply dirt trails marked by tire tracks. Most people travel these tracks in convoys to assure they won't be stranded in the outback if a vehicle breaks down.
Travel the outback with a tour group, or you can drive yourself on established highways. The Ghan train also travels between Darwin and Adelaide, offering passengers three levels of accommodation.
