Schedule your trip to span the end of October and early November. Although the official holiday is only November 1 and 2, the city comes alive for the dead far earlier. By mid-October, markets are filled with altar supplies. Public spaces are cleared for displays. Special events in the city are staged in honor of the holiday.
Balance your planning between scheduled itineraries and free-form roaming. With a short trip focused on an annual tradition, it can be tempting to sign your life over to tour operators. It's best to avoid that. You want to make sure that you enjoy the most wonderful aspects of Oaxaca's Dia de los Muertos celebrations. The calendas, or public processionals, in the streets are a must-see. The comparsas, which are spirited dance parades with people dressed as devils and skeletons, are sights to behold. The gallery exhibits, particularly in the village community museums, are unforgettable.
Get thee to the market! Oaxaca has all manner of markets, from the massive markets that are open at all hours to small shops specific to each neighborhood. Shopping is essential to your touring experience.
Make the pilgrimage to the cemetery. Certain cemeteries are more active during Oaxaca's Dia de los Muertos celebrations on November 1 and 2. The municipal cemetery, located east of the town center, has a full-blown amusement park and carnival stalls alongside a cemetery packed with flickering saint candles, bright red and orange flowers. Photographs of loved ones and pictures of virgins and saints can be seen in the cemetery. For the most convivial yet traditional celebration, head out to the cemetery in Xoxocotlan. It's a bit touristy, but it's a splendid event with many families turning out to celebrate the memory of loved ones.
Make an offering. Day of the Dead is a time for sharing, and many families at the cemetery are open to engaging in conversation. Brings candles, food and flowers to place somewhere in the cemetery as a way to remember your own loved ones. Remember that, although the cemetery is crowded, people still try to keep the grave sites clear. Watch where you walk.
