How Are Rip Currents Formed?

Rip currents are the cause of death for approximately 100 people per year. At least 80% of water rescues by surf and beach lifeguards are due swimmers caught in rip currents. Understanding how rip currents form and how to identify a rip current from the shore provides the ability to avoid rip currents and reduce risk at the beach.
  1. Facts

    • A rip current is a column of fast moving water that is moving away from the beach. The column of water in a rip current flows from the shoreline and ends beyond the breaking waves. They can develop along the beach in any body of water with breaking waves, including lakes. They are formed due to a combination of factors such as the shape of the landscape under the body of water, wind speed and direction, waves, swells, tides and man-made structures.

    Formation

    • Rip currents form where waves travel from water that is deep to water that is shallow. When strong waves meet with waves of weaker force, a plume of water develops that creates a channel leading away from the shoreline. The terrain of the bottom of the body of water can influence formation, such as channels that allow waves to be weaker located near higher terrain, such as sandbars, that increase the force of a wave.

    Optimal Conditions

    • Rip currents are more likely to occur during times of high wave action. High surf conditions, such as changes in tides, high winds, offshore storms and heavy boat traffic, are influences on conditions that create optimal conditions for rip currents to form. Rip currents can form along the beach at any tidal location and are common near structures such as jetties and piers.

    Size

    • Rip currents can form in a wide range of sizes. They may be only a few feet wide or as much as 50 yards or more in width. The current may end as soon as the outward flow passes the breaking waves or extend hundreds of yards toward the open water. Rip current speeds vary from one foot per second to eight feet per second.

    Myth

    • It is a myth that rip currents pull swimmers to the bottom of the body of water. Rip currents are horizontal, rather than vertical, columns of water that pull people away from shore. Lack of swimming experience, fear or exhaustion is the cause of drowning in rip currents.

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