Malaya, as it was then known, achieved independence in 1957. Communist uprisings and hostile relations with nearby Indonesia caused political unrest in the years immediately proceeding independence. In 1963 the northeastern Bornean states of Sabah and Sarawak, as well as Singapore, joined Malaya to create Malaysia. More trouble was to follow, though. Tensions between the immigrant Chinese and native Malays boiled over at the end of the decade, leading to the race riots of 1969, in which hundreds of people were killed. Since the seventies, Malaysia has prospered, although the 1997 Southeast Asian financial crisis hampered that growth and temporarily plunged the country back into recession. Tourists will rarely see any open animosity between the different cultures living in Malaysia today.
Peninsula Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo both lie in the South Pacific. Temperatures remain high all year round, rarely dropping below 20 degrees, and the heaviest rainfall is from September to March. The east coast of Peninsula Malaysia is particularly badly affected by the monsoon rains from November to February--which is worth bearing in mind if you are planning to escape the Northern Hemisphere winter for a beach holiday at Christmas time. The west coast of Peninsula Malaysia is by far the more urban. Popular tourist spots such as Penang, Melaka, and Kuala Lumpur are all on the western side. Dense rainforest covers the north of Peninsula Malaysia and also Malaysian Borneo, creating the perfect conditions for wildlife-spotting and trekking holidays.
Accommodation varies drastically depending on where you go in Malaysia and also on how much you are prepared to spend. As a general rule, you get far more for your money in Malaysia than in the U.S. The cheapest rooms in the Malaysian capital, Kuala Lumpur, range from $10 for a cheap motel room with very basic amenities, up to hundreds of dollar per night for a palatial room at a top hotel. As you move away from the bigger cities, accommodation options become more limited. In some towns there is a dearth of any mid-range accommodation. In Penang, for example, a little extra money will get you a much better room. Some of the cheapest rooms ($8) have only a mattress on the floor and no air conditioning. If you are prepared to pay $40-50 dollars you will get a deluxe en-suite room in a decent hotel. East coast beach resorts tend to be cheaper compared to west coast urban accommodations. Many beach resorts in the east coast offer package deals, including meals, accommodation, and equipment hire. More unusual accommodation can be found in remote villages and rainforest areas. In Malysian Borneo you can sleep in a traditional longhouse, used by the Bornean tribespeople for hundred of years.
The Malaysian way of life centres on the community, rather than the individual. Family is prized above all else, and "losing face" is the most shameful thing that can happen. Public displays of emotion are frowned upon. Raising your voice and becoming aggressive if things are not going your way will rarely help and is likely to induce resentment in your host. In general, though, Malaysians' concern about "losing face" is a good thing for tourists. It means hosts will always offer a warm welcome and often go out of their way to ensure your needs are being met. Urbane Malaysians tend to be more Western in outlook and, while they might be a little cooler with their welcome because of this, are generally more open-minded in regard to alcohol consumption, sexuality, and race. As Malaysia is a Muslim country, alcohol is scarce. If you are the guest at a local's house, bring sweets or chocolate rather than a bottle of wine.
The mix of Chinese, Indian, and Malaysians has created a truly delectable cuisine. Chinese food dominates, but most large towns and cities in Malaysia will have designated areas for Indian, Indonesian, and Portuguese cuisines. Fusion cooking in Malaysia is commonplace, with different cultures sharing ideas and ingredients. This fusion cooking has even created an entirely new cuisine: Baba Nonya. Unique to Malaysia, Baba Nonya cuisine includes tasty dishes such as "duck with tamarind" and "Laksa"--an earthy mackerel broth topped with mint leaves and dark shrimp paste. The best places to enjoy Baba Nonya cuisine are Penang and Melaka.
