Types of Shoreline Waves: Wind Waves, Swell Waves, Breaking Waves

Wave Categories in the Nearshore Zone

1. Wind Waves (Surface Waves): Generated locally by wind friction; short period, grow with wind speed.
2. Swell Waves (Ocean Waves): Travelled from distant storms; longer period, longer wavelength, retain energy over distance.
3. Breaking Waves: Collapse in shallow water when height exceeds stability; create turbulence, foam, currents that shape beaches.

Coastal Significance

These wave types drive sediment transport, erosion, beach morphology, and nearshore ecology—essential for coastal engineering and recreation planning.