1. Wind Waves (Surface Waves):
- Wind waves are generated by the friction of wind blowing over the water surface.
- They are formed when gusts of wind transfer energy to the water particles, causing them to move in circular orbits.
- Wind waves appear as ripples on the water surface and can grow larger as the wind speed increases.
2. Swell Waves (Ocean Waves):
- Swell waves are wind-generated waves that have propagated away from the area where they were initially formed.
- These waves have longer periods (time between wave crests) and higher wavelengths (distance between wave crests) compared to wind waves.
- Swell waves can travel over long distances across the ocean and maintain their energy.
3. Breaking Waves:
- Breaking waves occur when waves approach shallow water near the shoreline and their height becomes too great for their wavelength.
- The wave's forward momentum causes the front face to become steeper, leading to a breakdown or "breaking" of the wave.
- Breaking waves generate turbulence, foam, and currents, which play important roles in coastal erosion, sediment transport, and beach morphology.
These three types of shoreline waves are crucial in shaping coastal environments, transporting sediment, and providing energy for various coastal ecosystems. Understanding their characteristics and dynamics is vital in coastal engineering, hazard assessment, navigation, and recreational activities along the shoreline.
