One of the largest residential communities in Jamaica, Portmore does not automatically resonate as a not-to-be-missed stop on the tourist beat. However, this sprawling town 11 miles down the causeway from the capital Kingston has gradually rebranded itself. Today, it appeals to the independent-spirited tourist in search of either authentic Jamaica, or the beaches and limestone caves of Hellshire. Portmore is also famous for its mall, the largest in the Caribbean. The sparse hotel accommodations there are clustered around the so-called "hip strip" along the main highway. Visitors won’t experience the relentless bonhomie and comforts of Jamaica’s north coast resorts, but will find rates appealing to the modest budget.
Portmore is conspicuously lacking in the kind of all-inclusive hotel that has made the major resort towns of Negril and Montego Bay such a consistent draw for winter sun tourism. Pickings are slim. The town’s only stab at glory was the 200-room, 11-story Forum Hotel built in the 1970s, which now sits abandoned and stripped of fittings. The only medium-sized hotel standing is the Hotel Casanova. With porticoes reminiscent of a castle, the 36-room Casanova is far from a consolation prize though, garnering good reviews for its cheery service, sports bar, sea views, and on-site restaurant serving excellent seafood and local specialties such as curry goat and cow foot.
Although the Caribbean Sea is only a five-minute walk from the strip, the largely rocky south coast is not geared toward the same resort accommodations as the north. You'll find only one resort to speak of, and the similarity is in name only. Jewel’s International Resort sits on the waterfront, with some rooms offering private balconies with a sea view. Otherwise, expect fairly basic rooms rigged out with air-conditioning and cable TV. A resort swimming pool and on-site restaurant provide a final flourish.
Visitors to Portmore will find a scattering of informal guest house or bed-and-breakfast hotels, which typically advertise their presence with on-street signage rather than an online or tourism brochure presence. Bear in mind, however, that the "Back Road," as the causeway is known locally, traditionally has a bad reputation for prostitution. To avoid misunderstanding, stay clear of hotels that advertise room rates by the hour. One of the more reputable budget hotels is the Sea Horse Rider Inn, which offers basic accommodations with sea views. Room rates include a complimentary breakfast.
Portmore’s entrepreneurial spirit has seen the emergence of several private hotels, available for rental on a self-catering basis. In many cases, this is the best option, as many offer free, secure parking and a plethora of amenities. Carlton’s House, for example, is a gated residence just 20 minutes from Kingston’s Norman Manley airport. Visitors can relax in an art deco, non-smoking ambiance, and venture outside to enjoy tennis courts and a children’s playground. Down by the fisherman’s beach, Hellshire Holiday villas have self-catering rooms bookable by night, or for a month or more at a time. The villas are a short walk from the self-styled seafood capital of Jamaica.
