Review your terminology. Purists assert that the term "alebrije" is inaccurate because the word originally described papier mache creations of Pedro Linares, an artist in Mexico City. The Oaxacan villages juggle the term alebrije with the simpler word "figuras," or figures. You may also hear the terms "animalitos" (little animals) and "monos," or monkeys.
Investigate the artisan shops in Oaxaca's city center, and then explore the villages.The three main towns known for their alebrijes are San Martin Tilcajete, Arrazola and La Union Tejalapan. You can hire a guide or go on an organized tour, but some operators only take you to studios that have paid them a commission. The DIY method is to go to Oaxaca's Abastos market and head for the nearby street adjacent to the second class bus station. There is a massive parking lot filled with signs for different villages. These are the pick-up point for colectivos—communal taxis that have assigned routes—that transport people between Oaxaca city and its surrounding villages.
Visit the home of the originator of the art form. Although it's a matter of some debate, most people regard Manuel Jiménez as the first carver of alebrijes. His family home and ranch in Arrazola is still in operation, and the nearby blocks have at least two or three carvers on every street. These are the pieces that sparked galleries, both local and abroad, to buy pieces by the carload. Museums and art historians followed suit, curating exhibits. The writers and filmmakers came next, interviewing the artist, photographing his art and writing books about the tradition. Another pair of famous carvers live in San Martin Tilcajete. Jacobo and Maria Angeles Ojeda may be younger than their predecessors, but they are groundbreaking in their techniques, incorporating earthy colors and indigenous motifs.
Watch artists in process. The joy of venturing out to Oaxaca's villages is that you are meeting most artists in their studios, homes and farms. You can see works-in-progress and chat with the artists about their inspirations and processes. You may see copal wood that has only been carved, but not painted. You may see artists wielding machetes to shape the soft wood into four-headed dragons, peacocks, fire-breathing aliens, bands of devils, winged horses and iguanas. You will likely see the painting of the creatures, which sometimes includes the use of toothpicks or prickly leaves to apply the details.
Purchase alebrijes. The carvings come apart, so it is easy to pack them for your trip back from Oaxaca. Artists wrap them in the signature pink paper. Check the bottom of your carving to see if the artist signed it, usually with his name and village. If you stop somewhere in town for lunch, you are sure to see more alebrijes decorating the counter tops and walls.
