Study food terminology. The key words to understanding gourmet dining in Oaxaca are not just food items, but methods of food preparation. Learn "a la plancha" (grilled), "a la parilla" (grilled over charcoal), "frito" (fried), "ahumado" (smoked), "relleno" (stuffed) and "al vapor" (steamed). The king of the dishes is "al ajillo" or "mojo de ajo," meaning fried with garlic and oil or butter.
Open with cocktails. Mexico might be famous for margaritas and tequila, but Oaxaca's got a buzz all its own. It's called mezcal, a Nahuatl word that translates to "earth roast maguey hearts." ("Maguey" refers to the agave plants used to make it.) Oaxacans take the spiky agave plants and, depending on the species, create a smokey or sweet concoction that darkens in color and strengthens in flavor as it ages. Eschew the commercial brands such as Beneva or Oro de Oaxaca in favor of artisan blends such as Santa Catarina de Minas, Rey Zapoteco, Los Ancestros or Tobala. If you're more of the mixed cocktail type, the bar at La Biznaga makes a killer mojito, as well as your more typical margarita.
Follow with appetizers. Oaxaca's appetizers are a great way to sample its many ingredients. Legend says everyone must eat chapulines if they wish to return to Oaxaca someday. Chapulines are grasshoppers toasted with garlic and lime and then spiked with sal de gusano or chili. Though they might not sound like a gourmand's first choice, they are served as a cocktail snack and can top many traditional Oaxacan dishes. Memelas, tlayudas, empanadas and tamales are also among Oaxaca's traditional delicacies. Enjoy the excellent appetizer menus at Los Pacos, Maria Bonita, La Biznaga and Cafe de la Olla.
Try the soup. Oaxaca's soups run the gamut from squash blossom to wild mushroom, the chili-based sopa Azteca to the stew-like pozole. Many restaurants include soup on the menu of their comida corrida, or the meal of the day, served between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. on weekdays. Find great soups at El Naranjo, Cafe de la Olla and Biche Pobre.
Try Oaxaca's most famous signature dish—mole sauce. The sauce, which comes in seven variations, involves complex combinations of roasted seeds, chilies, unsweetened chocolate, berries, green tomato or herbs. Try mole negro, mole colorado, mole coloradito, mole amarillo, mole verde, chichilo negro and mancha manteles. Must-visit spots include the stunning courtyard of Los Danzantes, the gourmet buffet at Catedral, the upstairs plaza view at La Casa de la Abuela, and the impeccable seafood restaurants Marco Polo and El Red.
Forget about ambiance. Looking for the real homemade stuff? Hit the village markets. In Huayapam, women create a frothy tejate drink with toasted cacao, corn and flowers that was the drink of Zapotec kings. In Ocotlan, little old ladies outside the market sell hand-ground chocolate. In central Oaxaca's Friday Pochote market, you may even find a vendor selling tamales stuffed with wild mushrooms from the mountains. Tlamanalli, in Teotitlan del Valle, offers Zapotec delights made from scratch. Every village has its secret specialty, just waiting for a foodie sleuth to uncover it. As they say in Mexico, "¡Provecho!"—otherwise known as "bon appetit."
