How to Spend a Day in the Village of Santa Elena, Mexico

Located just over the Rio Grande, Santa Elena, Mexico borders Big Bend National Park in the state of Texas, and is 300 miles southeast of El Paso. Santa Elena is significant in that it is only accessible via two routes: a rugged, unmaintained road across the sweltering Chihuahua Desert or by people ferry, which crosses the river on the western side of Big Bend. The village has a few modern conveniences, like electricity and an automobile or two, but overall, the villagers seem to relish such isolation, holding steadfast to their culture and their beliefs. There is little fanfare for the occasional day tripper. Because of the proximity, any chamber of commerce or welcoming committee seems unmotivated to court tourism, unlike most border towns. With the exception of the ferryman, the burro drivers, and maybe one restaurant, the sleepy town remains oblivious, and thus refreshingly unchanged since its origins.

Things You'll Need

  • Sunscreen
  • Camera
  • Bottled water
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Instructions

    • 1

      Fly into El Paso International Airport and take Interstate 10 east to Van Horn, Texas. From Van Horn, exit onto U.S. 90 southeast toward Marathon. From Marathon, State Highway 2627 takes the visitor to Big Bend National Park.

    • 2

      Continue south on 2627 to Panther Junction and turn west on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to roads end and the Santa Elena crossing.

    • 3

      Park the vehicle and hire the ferryman to cross the Rio Grande. Note that the ferryman is a gentle, aged Mexican and the ferry is a small fishing boat controlled manually by his guide stick. The charge is $2.00 per person round trip and in advance.

    • 4

      Pay the taxi service once in Mexico. This involves 1 to 3 children, between the ages of 6 and 12, greeting the visitor atop a burro. Prices can be haggled at this point. There is a minimal charge, usually $1.00, for photographing the children while on the burro, and an equal charge for riding the burro into town. This also is a round trip charge.

    • 5

      Arrive in town and note the fenced yard containing several goats and free-range chickens and located around a restaurant with an undeterminable name.

    • 6

      Dine at the restaurant. The interior is a makeshift dining room, or an extended living room, and the kitchen is open with a standard stove and a steaming souse chef pot of something delicious cooking. The menu options are extremely limited with chicken as the staple.

    • 7

      Order the chicken enchilada smothered in rich goat cheese, with standard rice, beans and tortilla on the side. It's possibly the best enchilada anywhere.

    • 8

      Visit the small and functional Catholic church. Whether bilingual or not, allow the priest to proudly show his chapel and express his vocation to the rare visitor.

    • 9

      Visit the small school during regular hours and note the genuine respect the pupils have for their professor.

    • 10

      Return to the edge of town and the taxi service, which will return to the ferryman.

    • 11

      Set up camp on the Texas side of the river at Cottonwood Campground. Otherwise, there are three other camping locations at Big Bend.

    • 12

      Dine and lodge at the only facility in Big Bend National Park: The Chisos Mountains Lodge. Reservations are absolutely necessary.

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