Aute Samoa: The Art and Cultural Significance of Samoan Barkcloth

Aute (also spelled ʻaute or siapo in wider Polynesia) is the traditional Samoan barkcloth—a textile made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree (Broussonetia papyrifera). More than just fabric, aute embodies Samoan identity, history, and social structure. Its production is a communal, gendered art form passed down through generations.

The Making of Aute: A Labor of Love

The process is intensive, collaborative, and steeped in protocol:

1. Harvesting the Bark (O le to’i la‘au)

Mature paper mulberry shoots (2–3 years old) are selectively cut. The outer bark is peeled away, revealing the inner bast fibers—the raw material. This is men's work, often done in plantations (fa‘ato‘aga).

2. Soaking & Beating (O le folafola ma le tutu)

The inner bark strips are soaked in water (sometimes seawater) to soften and ferment slightly, loosening pectins. Then, on a long wooden anvil (tutua), women beat the strips with a grooved wooden mallet (i‘e). This felts the fibers into a widening, thinning sheet. The rhythmic tutu sound is iconic. Sheets are joined by overlapping and beating seams—creating large cloths without stitching.

3. Drying & Bleaching (O le malamalama)

Sheets are sun-dried. For white ceremonial aute, they may be bleached by repeated sun exposure or washing with a lime (pili) solution. Natural colors (cream, tan) are also valued.

4. Decoration (O le tulaga)

Designs are applied freehand or with carved upeti (pattern boards) using natural dyes:

• Black: Soot (lama) from candlenut (tuitui) or charcoal.
• Brown/Red: Bark dyes (o‘a from Bischofia javanica, loa).
• Yellow: Turmeric (ago).

Motifs are geometric (fa‘ata‘ita‘i), representing nature (centipede, jellyfish, pandanus flower), genealogy, or proverbs. Each village/family has signature patterns.

Cultural Uses & Meanings

Traditional

• Clothing: Tīpaliga (loincloths), laei (kilts), ceremonial mantles for chiefs (matai).
• Ceremonial: ‘Ie toga (fine mats) and aute are essential gifts in fa‘alavelave (life-crisis exchanges: weddings, funerals, title bestowals). They embody feoagaiga (sacred sibling covenant).
• Adornment: Headbands, armbands, dance costumes (siva).
• Domestic: Wall hangings, mosquito screens, bedding.

Contemporary

• Fashion: Designers incorporate aute into haute couture, streetwear, jewelry.
• Art: Contemporary Samoan artists (e.g., Mary Pritchard, Rosanna Raymond) use aute as canvas for political, diasporic, ecological commentary.
• Cultural Revival: Workshops in Samoa, NZ, Australia, USA teach youth. Siapo (Samoan term) is a marker of cultural pride in the diaspora.
• Economic: Fair-trade cooperatives sell aute products globally, supporting village economies.

Why Aute Matters

Aute is a taonga (treasure). Its making reinforces vā fealoa‘i (relational space) between people, ancestors, and environment. The paper mulberry is a canoe plant—brought by Polynesian navigators—linking Samoans to their voyaging heritage. In a globalized world, aute remains a tangible, living expression of fa‘aSāmoa (the Samoan way).