The Big Island of Hawaii is a backpacker's dream. With 4,028 square miles of the most stunning scenery on Earth, coupled with diverse choices for camping, lodging and transportation, it's easy to see why the outdoorsy set flocks there from the mainland when they need a little mid-winter sunshine. Of course, over-preparation isn't exactly in keeping with the laid-back spirit of Hawaii, and you could certainly wing it without much more preparation than a plane ticket. But keep in mind that everything's easier when you don't have to sweat the small stuff, even in paradise. And Hawaii is a BIG island.
Research your destination ahead of time using a guidebook such as "The Big Island Revealed." Though the island can be circled by car in a day, plan to spend at least a week seeing the sights. From either airport you may choose your direction of travel, but these steps will assume an arrival in Hilo and a clockwise direction.
Choose your mode of transportation. Many backpackers rent an off-road vehicle to get the most out of their explorations, and prices can be reasonable with advance planning, though gas will cost significantly more than on the mainland. But it's entirely possible to see the island relying on the free Hele-On bus system and the relatively safe island pastime of hitchhiking.
Decide where you'll lay your head. Plentiful and scenic camping is available. Research permit requirements. Or kick up your comfort a notch at Arnott's Lodge, the Manago Hotel or the Namakani Paio Cabins, fun and affordable options conveniently located near Hilo, Kona and Kilauea, respectively.
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Spend at least a few days at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Hike the Napau Crater Trail for a glimpse of the Pu'u 'O'o cone, drive the Chain of Craters road, make the long trek to the ever-changing coastline at Halape, see ancient petroglyphs, or make a nighttime pilgrimage to watch molten lava pour into the sea. This is the beating heart of the island, so don't shortchange yourself here.
Visit South Point and see the Green Sand Beach. It's a four-mile hike or a nasty off-road drive from the trailhead. Go early to avoid others and scramble down to the glittering olivine shoreline. If you think all beaches are more or less alike, you're in for a surprise.
Make your way to the northern tip of the island to see Wai'pio Valley to rediscover the meaning of the word "green." If you have the time (and the permit), tackle the spectacular but challenging trek into the remote, neighboring Waimanu Valley.
Cap off your adventure with a hike, drive or a combination of both to one of the island's nearly 14,000-ft., snow-capped volcanoes. Both Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea are accessible to the public, with the latter being a popular tourist destination and home to some of the world's most powerful telescopes. Stargazing groups depart regularly for the summit from most island hotels, including Arnott's Lodge.
