The church was built in the year 330 to mark the spot where tradition holds Jesus was crucified. It saw the ravages of conflict, destroyed by Persians in 614 and Egyptian Caliph Hakim in 1009, then battled over by crusaders in the 11th century, and rose up in new pieces in an eclectic, complex structure where different branches of Christianity meet. The Greek Orthodox Church oversees the chapel believed to be at the site of the crucifixion, and candles from different denominations guide the way into the edicule over Christ's tomb. Pilgrims today move through a network of chapels and medieval architecture that hasn't changed very much over nearly a millennium.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre welcomes visitors of all faiths inside its doors to view the magnificent rotunda and ornate antiquities of the basilica. Dress modestly to go inside; for example, avoid tank tops and short shorts. To avoid crowds and the possibility of waiting in line for as much as an hour to get inside, arrive at the entrance gate on St. Helena alley near the 5 a.m. opening time. From April to September, the doors stay open until 8 p.m.; the rest of the year the church closes at 7 p.m. Anticipate larger crowds on Christian holy days, especially Easter. Admission is always free. Bring a pocket flashlight to see the darker corners of the complex such as Joseph of Aramathea's tomb, and be prepared to climb sometimes narrow steps to explore the site.
You'll likely see visitors kneel at and kiss a large, flat stone just after entering the southern hall of the church; tradition holds that Jesus' body was wrapped for burial on this slab. The path through the church takes you through the grand rotunda with sunlight streaming through the top, and chapels for Copts, Syrian Orthodox, Armenians and more. Chapels also memorialize different elements of Jesus' crucifixion, including one re-creating his imprisonment and one remembering the moment when soldiers divided up Jesus' robes. Others are dedicated to Dimus, the repentant thief crucified alongside Jesus, and Longinus, the centurion who pierced Jesus' side, then converted. The Finding of the Cross Chapel marks where tradition holds Emperor Constantine's mother found pieces of the original cross, prompting the Roman ruler to build the church.
Israeli authorities try to keep the holy quarters in Jerusalem safe for tourism, and attacks against tourists here aren't common. The entire region -- Israel, the West Bank and Gaza -- is under a State Department travel warning that can ebb and flow depending on the current state of tensions in the Middle East. Steer clear of random street protests that might erupt in the Old City. Be especially cautious around holy sites on religious holidays and on weekends as pedestrian traffic chokes the alleys and security officials enforce extra precautions. The State Department forbids its personnel from Friday visits to the Old City during Ramadan.
