The Lake's long narrow profile was sculpted by a glacier about 10,000 years ago at the end of the last Ice Age. Its "torso," Colico, splits a limestone mountain range. The barren rocky sweep of its eastern leg's, or Lecco's, shoreline provides a sharp contrast to the rolling green banks of Como, its western leg. The shoreline is always within sight of the Alps rising majestically in the distance.
Since prehistoric times the Lake's shores and surrounding hills have been gathering places and trading routes. Julius Caesar, in 59 BC, created the settlement of Novum Comum and posted his most favored supporters there.
Its strategic position between Northern Italy's Po Valley and Alpine passes leading to Germany's Rhine Valley where the Romans had significant trading interests let the area prosper. According to the ComoGuide.com, however, its location also subjected the territory to constant wars.
Possession of the region changed hands several times in the centuries after the fall of Rome. In 1859, with the defeat of the Austrians at San Fermo, the Lake finally became part of the Kingdom of Italy.
No event on the Lake Como calendar evokes the turbulent past as vividly as late June's Festival of San Giovanni, held on and around the Lake's only island, Comancina. To properly set the mood, read Alessandro Manzoni's 17th century novel "The Betrothed," depicting life in Lake Como during its two centuries under harsh Spanish rule.
Fireworks visible for miles put the final touches on the Festival, but their dazzle isn't nearly as moving as the lumaghitt lights, snail shells filled with burning olive oil illuminating the island's shore. In the early days of the festival, the locals would feast on polenta and snails. They then put the empty snail shells to good use by turning them into lanterns.
Lake Como's shores are dotted with dozens of towns accessible from its perimeter roads, ferries or excursion boats. Ancient churches gracing medieval town squares and great royal villas set in jewel-like gardens are scattered among them.
Bellagio, on a promontory at the juncture of Lake Como's two legs, is an enchanting town of warmly-hued buildings tumbling down the hill along stone staircases leading to the shore. Its luxury hotels share lakeside space with designer shops and cafes. Bellagio is a shopping magnet for those in search of Made in Italy silk, ceramics and leather items.
The silk items Bellagio's shops come from Como, about a one-hour drive from to its south. More than 80 percent of Europe's silk is produced here. Even gaudier than its silks, however, is the black white, pink and gray-striped marble facade of Como's 13th-century Broletto in the Piazza del Duomo.
A less touristy town about 5 minutes from Bellagio, Pescallo offers harbor-side dining on fresh-caught lake fish.
The Locanda Restaurant on Comancina Island has served the same six-course meal for over sixty years. It begins with fresh vegetables and salted beef, and ends with flaming brandy and coffee. Wine is included.
