Restaurant Guide to Paris

Paris is a city of fabulous food -- in a wide range of price and formality levels. Dining like the locals means eating at small cafes, bistros and brasseries with quintessential Paris sidewalk seating, where observing the passers-by comes free with the meal. Planning ahead in late summer is important, as well as knowing that on Sunday and Monday nights many restaurants are closed. Tipping customs and credit card information are useful pointers, as is forgetting that diet for just a little while.
  1. Bonjour! Breakfast Parisian-Style

    • Some of the smaller Paris hotels include continental breakfast with the room rate. Otherwise, taking a walk to one of the neighborhood cafes is the locals' way to start the day. When the weather cooperates, grab a sidewalk table to soak up the people-watching scene while you map out the day's sightseeing. A glass of orange juice and cafe au lait, hot chocolate, or tea with a basket of croissants and pains au chocolat is a typical breakfast. Order fruit, cereal or eggs to get your jet-lagged batteries re-charged. The waiter may offer sparkling or still bottled water, for which you'll pay a premium, but Paris tap water is equally good. And, by all means, don't worry if your waiter doesn't greet you with a cheery smile.

    Lunchtime in Paris

    • Lunch can be a rather leisurely affair and usually gets underway around 1 p.m. Some of the tasty standard menu items you'll find are salad Nicoise, croque monsieur with pommes frites (French fries), various omelets and French onion soup gratinee, a meal in itself. If you're having wine with lunch, a carafe of the house variety is a common request. On gorgeous days, Parisians often pick up a baguette and soft cheese to enjoy on a park bench or from a perch along the picturesque Seine. Look for homemade bread with its pointy, not rounded, ends. Since sightseeing may call for an ice cream break, prepare to be overwhelmed by 70 flavors at the famous Maison Berthillon on Ile Saint-Louis near Notre-Dame. Note that as of October 2013, they're closed Mondays and Tuesdays and from mid-July throughout August, which is typical of summer schedules at many Paris restaurants.

    An Evening in Paris -- With Dinner

    • Most restaurants aren't open for dinner before 7:30 p.m. Parisians typically dine out after that time, even sitting down at 9 p.m. in the summer, when the evenings are long. Visa (called Carte Bleue) is widely accepted, as is Master Card (called Eurocard), but restaurants accepting American Express are mainly at the top end only. You don't want to go without dinner on Sunday and Monday evenings, so scout out charming neighborhoods. Try the historically Jewish Maris district, where falafel reigns; the Latin Quarter for steak and fries; and Montparnasse for crepes. Small cafes and bistros serve coffee, drinks and light meals in busy tourist areas, and traditional brasseries tend to remain open until midnight. Hotels can offer suggestions, too, which could include their own restaurants.

    Paris Tipping Tips

    • A 15 percent service charge is included in all restaurant and bar bills. Leaving a coin or two on the tray as thanks for extra service or kind attention to coats, kids, a spilled drink or attempts at high school French is fine. Round up small bills to the nearest half euro or add one euro per 20 euros of the bill in better restaurants.Tipping is not obligatory, and a waiter should always bring your change. Do tip with cash rather than adding it to a credit card slip. When it's really important to you to get a seat in a popular restaurant, your hotel concierge has the best chance of securing a reservation. If the concierge has performed miracles, leave 15 or 20 euros when you check out, especially if you plan to return to that hotel.

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