Top chefs in Spain have been the leaders in expanding culinary boundaries since at least the 1990s, most notably with the development of the high-degree-of-difficulty molecular gastronomy. The majority of American diners, though, including those in Maryland, know Spanish cooking from the much more traditional tapas, a style of small plate dining, that is popular throughout much of Spain. These types of restaurants, and those serving more formal fare, can be found in the Old Line State.
Jaleo, the celebrated Jose Andres Washington, D.C. tapas joint, expanded to Bethesda, Maryland, in 2001. It continues to enjoy popularity after nearly a decade. The oft-changing menu helps to keeps things fresh and allows diners to experience many options, and reasons for future visits. Tapas, especially well-made ones that are served in this restaurant, are inherently drink and group friendly.
Among the traditional items is jamon Iberico de bellota (cured ham from the highly regarded acorn-fed, black-footed pigs). This is the Spanish version of the best prosciutto. Jaleo's offerings are divided among cheeses, soups and salads, vegetables, fried dishes, seafood, meats and Jose's way, which are fairly imaginative creations. All portions are not smallish; a half-dozen paella dishes that serve at least two are offered as well. The restaurant also offers an unusual dish featuring rice tinted black with cuttlefish and squid ink and served with porcini mushrooms. The lunch menu, consisting of tapas-influenced sandwiches and salads, offers some fine deals. Happy hour cocktails are yet another attraction, and a natural partner to the small plates. These cocktails include Jaleo's quenchable sangria.
Jaleo
7271 Woodmont Avenue
Bethesda, Maryland 20814
301-913-0003
jaleo.com
Tapas Adela, which opened in late 2009 in the Fells Point section of Baltimore, has quickly grown in popularity for both its well-executed food and attractive and often lively setting. The restaurant is conducive to enjoyment with cocktails, wine and beer, and diners are encouraged to start with a selection of cured meats, Spanish cheeses and typically Spanish snacks such as cured anchovies, olives and fried capers. The wine list is rather abbreviated, but the red and white versions of sangria have drawn notice. A number of specialty cocktails, several served martini-style, are also available.
The concise menu consists of prepared small plates ranging from soups and salads, vegetable dishes and meats. Calamari meatballs, scallops with a pistachio vinaigrette and grilled pork belly with brown sugar syrup are several of the more interesting items. The restaurant serves paella, somewhat unusual for a restaurant specializing in tapas, and, with a 24-hour notice, an entire roast suckling pig.
Tapas Adela
814 S. Broadway
Baltimore, Maryland 21231
410-534-6262
tapasadela.com
Tio Pepe has been serving Baltimore since 1968. The whitewashed walls, numerous small dining rooms and white-linen-covered tables properly evoke a traditional restaurant in Spain. The comfortable, secluded setting coupled with its formal professional service has made it a special-occasion destination for many local diners. The menu consists of Spanish favorites and some continental standards. You won't find molecular gastronomy here. What you will find is cold tomato-based gazpacho, paella a la Valenciana, roast suckling pig and flan, plus oysters Rockefeller, smoked salmon with capers and a chopped boiled egg, minute steak, Dover sole and broiled veal chops in a black truffle sauce. The wine lists (regular and a reserve red) can offer some gems at reasonable prices.
Tio Pepe
10 E. Franklin
Baltimore, Maryland 21202
410-539-4675
coloquio.com
