Buy a pull-along trailer to accommodate the size of the camper. Have a welder retrofit the chassis with a corner gusset in each corner. Weld chassis tabs on the gussets and at equal intervals along the top, bottom and sides of the chassis.
Weld three 2-inch wide steel tubes between the two long sides to strengthen the chassis and support the floor.
Assemble a 2-by-4 inch poplar lumber frame around the perimeter of the trailer chassis for the subfloor frame. Bolt the frame to the chassis with sixteen 3/8-inch diameter carriage bolts.
Cut a piece of 3/4-inch plywood for the floor. Cover the underside of the plywood with epoxy to make it water-resistant. Screw the plywood to the subfloor frame.
Draw the outline for the walls on cardboard. Cut the pattern with a utility knife. Lay the template on the backside of a ¾-inch sheet of plywood and trace the outline. Use a jig saw to cut the wall panel. Reverse the template and use it to make the opposite wall panel. Place the wall panels together and sand the edges with coarse sandpaper.
Cut the opening for the door in the passenger side wall. Refer to the door manufacturer’s instructions for the dimensions and door installation. Cut the opening for the window.
Install the walls on the trailer. Spread heavy-duty construction adhesive along the side of the subfloor framing. Place the carpenter’s level against the wall to ensure a plumb and straight fit. Pre-drill the pilot holes and fasten with No. 14 2-1/2 inch wood screws.
Install the roof framing. Measure the space between the two walls. Fabricate roof bows from two pieces of ¾ by 1-1/2 inch poplar lumber glued together. Mark lines at 16-inch intervals on both walls, starting from the front end of the wall up to the point where the roof meets the hatch.
Spread heavy-duty construction adhesive on the ends of the roof bows. Pre-drill the screw holes and insert No. 8 2-1/2 inch long screws.
Cut two sheets of 1/8-inch plywood and glue them together. Apply adhesive to the surface of the roof bows. Nail the plywood every six inches with No. 17 1-inch wire nails.
Build the top component for the hatch framing out of two pieces of ¾-by-1- 1/2-inch poplar boards glued together. Use two pieces of ¾-by-3-1/2-inch boards for the bottom horizontal component.
Trace the radius of the back wall from the roof edge down to the subfloor frame on a piece of cardboard. Cut the pattern 1 ½-inches wide. Use this component as a template for cutting the vertical components of the hatch framing out of ¾-inch plywood. Glue two pieces together to form the rib.
Assemble the hatch in place on the trailer. Clamp a rib to each side of the opening. Attach the top and bottom horizontal components between the ribs with angle brackets and construction adhesive.
Install three ribs between the top and bottom components with adhesive and angle brackets. Stagger ¾-by 1-1/2 cross braces at the top and bottom between the ribs, which adds strength. Cover with two 1/8 -inch plywood panels glued together. Finish with fiberglass siding material.
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for installation of the door, window, vent and tail light. Run wiring for any electrical components. Complete the interior and layout to suit your individual needs.
Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for installation of the door, window, vent and lighting. Run wiring for any electrical components and finish the interior according to the plan.
