Weather on a glacier can be frantic. Hot and sunny one moment, a frigid blizzard the next. Pack clothing that can be easily layered to accommodate unpredictable weather. Thin insulating and moisture-wicking fabrics, such as polypropylene, merino wool or polyester, should be used for your base layer. The middle layer should be the primary insulating layer; bring sweaters and pants made of fleece, down or wool. Wearing a wool sweater beneath a down jacket, for example, can provide added warmth during cold spells. The outer layer should act as a protective barrier against wind and water. Wear a weatherproof jacket shell and pants equipped with ventilation zippers, so you can cool off while keeping dry. Also bring several pairs of wool or synthetic socks; two to wear while traveling and a dry pair to wear in camp. Other essential items include hats, waterproof gloves and neck and face warmers. Because traveling on a glacier during sunny weather is blinding, bring polarized sunglasses and sunscreen for your face and lips.
Proper double-lined mountaineer boots are a must for glacial travel because they keep your feet warm and dry, and are compatible with crampons. Crampons provide maximum traction on snow and ice, especially steep inclines. Mountaineering axes are another must. You will need them for support and balance, but most importantly they will help you self-arrest during a slide. You will also need a harness and belay device for rope travel and assisted climbs. Carrying a personal crevasse rescue kit is another must; it should contain pulleys, extra rope, a Ropeman, locking carabiners, a tibloc and extra snow and ice anchors. Bring a rope ascender in case you fall into a crevasse and need to haul yourself out. Bring a sleeping bag rated to 0 degrees C and two insulating sleeping pads. The insulating pads usually include one foam pad and one inflatable sleeping pad.
Traveling on steep glacial terrain will require building an anchor system in case something goes wrong. Bring several snow and ice picks and a shovel to make your life easier when building an anchor. You need a shovel to flatten an area for camp and during an avalanche rescue. Bring a personal transceiver that sends a clear single, in case you get caught in an avalanche. You'll also need a helmet. Don't forget an insulated water bottle, which will keep your water from freezing, and a waterproof head lamp.
Other gear you will need if traveling with a group: a mountaineering weatherproof tent, a cooking stove, fuel, a first aid kit, a group repair kit, an 8.5 mm to 9 mm dry rope and a 10 mm or ticker rope for climbing. A dry rope won't absorb water and will keep your load light. Also carry an an altimeter, topographical maps, several compasses, an optional GPS unit, a satellite phone, spare snow anchors and spare polarized sunglasses.
