Oaxaca is located in the center of the Mesoamerican cultural area, making its ancient cities an interesting combination of different Mesoamerican influences. In the case of Monte Alban, the city was first an Olmec settlement more than 4,000 years ago, later taken over by Zapotec rulers, abandoned around 800 A.D. and later reoccupied and turned into the Mixtec capital. The Aztecs also built forts in the area at the time of the Spanish conquest, making the city an extraordinary historical site that has shed information on numerous ancient civilizations and the relationships between them.
Monte Alban is at the top of a strategic hill between two valleys, with spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding area from the tops of its pyramids and palaces. One of the details that makes the site unique is that, rather than building over flat ground, the inhabitants carved architectural details like foundations, causeways and even some buildings directly into the mountain. The solidity of such construction made it an important defensive site for the Zapotecs and later the Aztecs.
The huge Great Plaza is the centerpiece of Monte Alban, opening into a long esplanade flanked by a series of small pyramids and palaces. The North Platform off the plaza is the largest temple and palace complex, with a series of ceremonial alters and finely carved stones organized along the platform's ascending levels. Don't miss Tomb 104 on the platform, open to visitors and featuring ornate wall frescoes. For a panoramic view of the Great Plaza and the surrounding ball courts -- where the oldest known team sport was played and the losing team was often ritually sacrificed -- head up to the patio at the top of the South Platform.
Monte Alban in less than 6 miles south of Oaxaca City. Public buses depart from the city toward the site all day. The archaeological park is open from early morning to late afternoon every day and is especially crowded on Sundays when admission is free for Mexican citizens. All foreign tourists must pay a small admission fee that allows you to stay in the park until closing. Wear comfortable clothing for the hot climate and remember shoes with a good grip if you plan on climbing the pyramids and platforms.
