Grand Teton Climbing Guide

The Grand Teton is the biggest mountain of three Tetons in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park. It’s also the most popular mountain to climb in the United States and has a documented history of climbers scaling its highest peak of 13,770 ft. back to the late 1800s. But many climbers today climb it only halfway just to absorb the breathtaking scenery. Of course, you need to plan ahead to climb any of it, considering the weather on The Grand Teton is notoriously unpredictable.

Things You'll Need

  • Ice axe
  • Climbing helmet
  • Durable boots
  • Rain gear
  • Camping gear
  • $20 fee to enter the park
  • $15 permit reservation fee (optional)
  • Back country camping permit
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Instructions

  1. Planning Your Climb

    • 1

      Plan to climb the Grand Teton during the peak of summer since it’s generally considered the driest there during that time frame. However, inclement weather can happen on the Grand Teton at any time of the year.

    • 2

      Pack your mountain climbing equipment, along with camping gear and food. Include an ice axe for climbing during winter months and a high-quality climbing helmet. Wear durable boots, and never forget rain gear since the weather on the Grand Teton can turn to thunderstorms in the blink of an eye during afternoons.

    • 3

      Take $20 cash with you since this will be your fee to enter Grand Teton National Park, including access to nearby Yellowstone Park. Otherwise, no fees or permit are necessary to climb the Grand Teton. The only exception is a permit needed for backcountry camping, which you’ll likely need to do while climbing.

    • 4

      Stop by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station in the park and ask about the backcountry camping permits. These are free, though there is, as of 2010, a $15 reservation fee if you make reservations in advance. You can write the park to make a request for a permit: Grand Teton National Park Permits Office, P.O. Drawer 170, Moose, WY 83012. You can also fax them at (307) 739-3438. This fax number is applicable as of 2010.

    • 5

      Pick up your reserved permit before 10 a.m. at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station since the staff will give your permit to someone else if you wait any longer. It’s wise to get an early start on your climb to avoid the notorious Grand Teton thunderstorms that happen year-round.

    Climbing the Grand Teton

    • 6

      Start in Jackson, Wyoming and drive 12 miles to the north on Highway 191. When you reach Moose Junction, turn left. Keep driving until you reach Lupine Meadow Trailhead where most climbing routes start. Places to park may be crowded, so adhere to arriving as early in the morning as possible.

    • 7

      Kick off your climb by foot by going up Garnet Canyon. This trail extends close to two miles before you come to a literal fork in the road to make a decision which ridge to ascend.

    • 8

      Turn left and head either to Owen-Spalding ridge, Exum Ridge or Petzoldt Ridge, three highly popular sections of the Grand Teton.

    • 9

      Keep climbing another mile and you’ll end up in the Platforms where campgrounds are located. Go a bit farther and you’ll reach one of the highest points that average hikers and climbers can logically ascend at 9200 ft.: The Meadows.

    • 10

      Cross a bridge made of logs at The Meadows and keep going up a trail that takes you to Spalding Falls where you’ll get a spectacular waterfall view. If you keep climbing, you’ll eventually reach the Moraine campsites where you can rest for a night.

    Ascending Lower Saddle Wall

    • 11

      Look to the west when at the Moraine campsites and you’ll see Lower Saddle wall on the Grand Teton. Should you be in good enough shape, you can climb thanks to a provided fixed rope.

    • 12

      Ascend Lower Saddle with the fixed rope, using your ice axe if necessary. Have your climbing helmet on at all times since falling rocks can happen regularly at the highest peaks.

    • 13

      Descend down a short trail at the top that takes you back down Lower Saddle.

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