A History of Climbing Mount Everest: From Early Attempts to Modern Routes

The Evolution of Everest Expeditions

Mount Everest, the world's highest peak at 8,848 meters (29,029 ft), has drawn climbers for a century. The journey from first reconnaissance to today's commercial expeditions is marked by triumph, tragedy, and technological progress.

1921: First Reconnaissance

A British expedition led by George Mallory explored the North Col route from Tibet. They reached 8,290 m (27,200 ft) and pioneered the use of supplemental oxygen.

1922: Pushing Higher

Mallory returned with a stronger team, climbing to 8,534 m (28,000 ft). Tragically, Mallory and Andrew Irvine vanished during a summit attempt; their fate remains one of mountaineering's greatest mysteries.

1924: Norton's Record

Edward Norton led another British attempt, reaching 8,595 m (28,200 ft) without oxygen—a record that stood for decades.

1953: First Confirmed Summit

On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) stood atop Everest via the South Col route from Nepal, using oxygen. Their success marked a turning point in high-altitude mountaineering.

Modern Climbing: Two Main Routes

Today, climbers choose between:

• South Col Route (Nepal) – The most popular, traversing the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, Lhotse Face, and South Col.
• North Ridge Route (Tibet) – Follows the Rongbuk Glacier, North Col, and the exposed North Ridge.

Risks and Realities

Over 300 lives have been lost since 1921. Primary causes include altitude sickness, avalanches, falls, and exposure. Despite dangers, Everest remains the ultimate mountaineering challenge, attracting hundreds annually.