Getting the most bright and early jump on the Half Dome hike -- and beating the crowds -- means getting a permit from the wilderness permit office in Yosemite Village or making a reservation in advance at the National Park Service website. The permits are doled out to mitigate the damage to the wilderness in this popular staging point. This doesn't mean the campground is uncrowded -- despite the hike needed to get here, it's usually at capacity with eager Half Dome hikers. Getting here is an adventure itself -- no roads lead in, and you'll have to hike about 4.5 miles from Yosemite Valley with an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet. The only water source at the campground is the nearby Merced River, and food lockers are available to keep hungry bears at bay. It's OK to leave your tent pitched here during your hike.
The Upper Pines, Lower Pines and North Pines campgrounds are conveniently clustered at the east end of Yosemite Valley, putting you right on the path to Half Dome. They're also extremely popular and fill up quickly when the weather gets warm. Upper Pines, the largest of the trio, is open year round and requires reservations from mid-March to the beginning of December. The other two open in spring, close during fall and likewise require reservations. Here you get a few more amenities with your wilderness experience: Nearby Curry Village sells food and drinks, the water is drinkable, the toilets flush and a shuttle bus stops at the campground to take you through the village.
When you ascend Half Dome, your mind may wander to the thought of George Anderson historically climbing up the granite summit in 1875. If you're lucky enough to nab a campsite at Camp 4, you'll be sleeping in the footsteps of generations of rock climbers who have put this location on the National Register of Historic Places as a traditional Yosemite base camp. The first-come, first-served site fills up early, and the park ranger shows up at about 8:30 a.m. to assign the coveted spots to those first in line. One reason this Yosemite Valley site has been such a hotspot over several decades is the legendary bouldering behind the campground -- rocks with names such as Shiver Me Timbers and Pinball Wizard.
If your idea of getting back to nature doesn't include the tour buses and crowds choking the Yosemite Valley, take a bit of a detour on a road less traveled to find a spot to camp for the night. Northwest of Yosemite Valley and Half Dome, Tamarack Flat rests at the end of a 3-mile dirt road and welcomes you back to your tent each night with a refreshing stream. No reservations are needed, though campground use is limited to the summer months and the Tioga Road leading to the turnoff is closed in winter. Because the campground is close to El Capitan as well, Tamarack Flat makes a nice home base for those seeking an all-inclusive Yosemite hiking experience.
