Despite its disheveled appearance, Lake Titicaca's largest city, Puno, has earned the title of Peru's Capital of Folklore. Its four-block shopping and dining district is limited to pedestrians.
Hike to Huajsapata Park for the city and lake views, and a close-up look at the statue of great Inca chief Mano Capac.
Also within hiking distance is Isla Esteves, part of the Titicaca National Preserve. A dirt trail ideal for birdwatching encircles the island.
Travelers not on formal tours can explore Lake Titicaca aboard weathered public boats departing from Puno Bay. Round trips to the Uros, or "Floating," Islands take 2 hours.
The islands of Taquile and Amantani, with their artisans and archaeological sites, are about 3 1/2 hours from Puno.
At Juli, some 50 miles south of Puno, Transturin catamarans cross the lake to Copacabana, Bolivia. From there, rental boats travel to Bolivia's Islands of the Sun and the Moon. A public ferry also goes to the Island of the Sun.
Taxis lack meters and fares are negotiated in advance. Tipping isn't expected.
Colectivos, according to ACDI/VOCA Bolivia, are shared taxis following specific routes identified on their placards.
Pedicabs cart tourists almost anywhere in Puno for between S1 and S3, about US $0.33 to US $1.00.
Regular taxis are faster than pedicabs for trips to the Mirador Puma and Mirador el Condor fortresses overlooking the town.
Puno's Terminal Terrestre bus station is efficient and safe. Fodor's says that because the bus routes to Cusco and Arequipa were paved, many tourists now prefer to reach them by bus. Travel times to the two are 7 and 5 hours respectively. Buses also journey between Puno and Copacabana in Bolivia.
ACDI/VOCA Bolivia says that like colectivos, four-row microbuses follow different routes indicated by placards. Boarding a micro is as simple as flagging one down if it's headed where you're trying to go, because even the ones already packed will stop for additional passengers.
The Andean Explorer runs between Cusco and Puno along a rail route reaching an altitude of 14,150 feet at La Raya, where it makes its only stop.
Running on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays between November and March, with 8:00 a.m. departures and 6:00 p.m. arrivals; and Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from April through October, the Andean Explorer has first-class and backpacker fares. Lunch is included.
The airport serving the Lake Titicaca region is in Juliaca. Frommer's advises spending a minimum amount of time in Juliaca, either taking a taxi or van to Puno. Puno's major hotels have their own van service to and from the airport.
Visitors unaccustomed to such high altitudes need to acclimatize before attempting prolonged or strenuous activity.
Eating lightly and abstaining from alcohol also minimize the altitude's effects.
