Cape Lookout National Seashore’s undeveloped barrier islands, reachable only by private boat or ferry, stretch along the Atlantic coast south and east of Morehead City. A 3-mile paddle across a sometimes choppy sound brings visitors to a barren habitat where wild ponies roam and sandy beaches provide launch points for kite- or wind-surfing. Camping is allowed on the beach for up to 14 days without a permit, unless you’re traveling with a group of 25 or more. Campsites have no facilities, so be prepared to bring everything you need. During the summer, restrooms, showers and potable water are available.
Croatan National Forest snugs up against Morehead City’s north and west boundaries. Hiking, cycling and equestrian trails wind through the 160,000-acre forest; paddlers create their own routes through tidal estuaries and along blackwater streams. Croatan has developed campgrounds at Cedar Point, Neuse River and Oyster Point. Shady, well-spaced tent sites at Oyster Point, the closest to Morehead City, are available on a first-come, first-served basis, but the primitive campground rarely fills. The budget-friendly campground has vault toilets, potable water and a boat launch. The 20.4-mile Neusiok Trail begins at the Oyster Point Campground.
Dispersed camping is allowed throughout Croatan National Forest, with a few exceptions. Backpackers must obey “No Camping” signs, and not set up camp within designated day-use areas. The Mountains-to-Sea-Trail, a long-distance path leading from the Atlantic Ocean to the mountains of western North Carolina, cuts through the forest. The Neusiok Trail section is best hiked between October and May when there are fewer bugs and underbrush hasn’t grown up along the trail. Backpackers can set up camp anyplace along the trail and have a fire, as long as there is no burn ban in effect. Three trail shelters on the Neusiok have grills and accommodate up to five campers.
If having a modern bathhouse with hot showers is important to you, consider a commercial campground. While most of the commercial campgrounds along the North Carolina coast cater to RVs, a few have spots for tent campers. Pet-friendly Coastal Riverside Campground, 15 miles east of Morehead City, has shady tent sites, a pier and boat launch. Cedar Creek Campground and Marina, a half-hour drive northeast, has waterfront tent sites, a boat launch, and kayak and canoe rentals.