The Waterpocket Fold, a wrinkle in the crust of the earth, is responsible for Capitol Reef National Park’s unusual geography. Upheaval between 50 million and 70 million years ago created a region with a western side 7,000 feet higher than the eastern. Monoliths and buttes separated by washes and canyons dominate the horizon. While the park may appear barren at first look, it includes about a quarter-million acres of diverse ecosystems and landscape that includes Native American petroglyph sites, striking rock formations and the remnants of early settlers' attempts to create a home.
A 90-minute scenic drive through Capitol Reef’s remarkable geology winds through gorges and past pockmarked sandstone and ends at the Pioneer Register, where westward-bound pioneers scratched their names into the red rock walls. Cyclists are welcome but must stick to the park’s 140 miles of roads, and anglers can try their luck in the Fremont River if they have a Utah fishing license. The park has more than 150 miles of trails for day hikers and backpackers. Hikers should be aware that dry washes quickly become flooded streams after as little as a quarter-inch of rain and that open areas are dangerous during storms that are laden with lightning strikes.
Capitol Reef’s one developed campground is in a lush area by the Fremont River in the Fruita Historic District, site of an early Mormon settlement where thousands of fruit trees were planted. More than 3,000 trees, a one-room schoolhouse, rock walls and an irrigation system remain. The 71-site campground has restrooms with toilets and sinks but no showers. Sites have picnic tables and grills, and while the campground does have a dump station and potable water, there are no hookups. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis and usually fill early in the afternoon. Capitol Reef has two primitive campgrounds, but road conditions are rough, and four-wheel-drive is recommended. Campgrounds are open year-round.
Commercial campgrounds in Torrey, 5 miles from the park’s western boundary, are closest to the Fruita campground. Wonderland RV Park (capitolreefrvpark.com) claims to be the closest RV park to Capitol Reef. The campground has sites large enough for big rigs with full hookups that include cable, shade trees and grassy areas. Modern bathhouses have hot showers, and a laundry is on site. Sandcreek RV Park (sandcreekrv.com) has 12 full-hookup RV sites, a pavilion and modern bathhouses. Every site at nearby Thousand Lakes RV Park (thousandlakesrvpark.com) has a view of red rock cliffs. The campground has a swimming pool and play areas and full hookup sites with Wi-Fi.
