Sleeping in the hush of an ancient redwood forest is an experience not quickly forgotten. The top choice for such grand quarters is the campground at Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park in Northern California, about an hour from the Oregon border. No dream could conjure up grander trees, and as you watch the sun slanting between them through morning fog, you feel the magic of nature in all its radiance. Just 10 miles east of Crescent City on Highway 199, Jedediah Smith contains many of the remaining old-growth coastal sequoias; you'll have to find your way to the largest specimens yourself, since the ecologically minded park management team keeps the location of the Grove of Titans a secret. It will come as no surprise that Jedediah's 86 camping sites do not have RV hookups; you'll find only picnic tables, fire rings and restrooms. Arrive early for the best chance at a site during winter; contact Reserve America for a summer campsite reservation.
Move slightly closer to the Oregon border for an overnight in a remarkable 5,000-acre park that includes a large river, drifting dunes, ocean beaches, massive forests and some of the finest wetland habitat in the nation. Tolowa Dunes State Park, just north of Crescent City on Highway 101, is for adventurers only, since the two small campgrounds are primitive. Each site offers a table, fire ring and flat area to pitch your tent. Keep your eye out for waterbirds like migrating swans, ducks and geese while you cast your line into the singing water of the Smith River to try for salmon or steelhead for dinner.
Those not quite up to the thrill of hike-in or primitive camping can still walk on the wild side by heading a little farther yet toward Oregon on Highway 101. Like Jedediah Smith, Florence Keller Park is set in a redwood forest, albeit a much younger one. The 50 camping sites are private yet easy to access and available year-round on a first-come, first-served basis. The drive-through sites are modest, but many are large enough to accommodate small RVs, and the price is definitely right. A plus not shared by Jedediah: Fido is welcome as long as he keeps you on the other end of on a leash.
A half hour after crossing the Oregon border, at the north end of the small town of Brookings, lies a most unusual park. Harris Beach State Park is a large, grand park with sandy, secluded beaches; rocky outcroppings with eclectic tidepools; and a large, forested bluff some 100 feet above the beach on which the campground is built. A large island is also part of the park; alternatively known as Bird Island or Goat Island, it is the breeding ground for the tufted puffin. The campground opens its arms to many tents and RVs, but you will find most of the 156 sites spaced nicely apart and a short downhill walk to the beach.
